REVIEW: Honest Burgers, Brixton (From Surrey Comet)

REVIEW: Honest Burgers, Brixton

2:27pm Monday 6th February 2012 in Reviews

When food historians look back and start writing about the early years of the 21st Century, they will have to dedicate a chapter to the resurgence of the humble burger.

A few years back, beyond McDonalds, Burger King and a grubby Wetherspoons, burgers were not the most popular menu choice, but times have changed.

Recently we have seen Gourmet Burger Kitchen, the ubiquitous Byron and Hache appearing on our high streets and luxury burgers made with wagyu beef appear in Michelin star restaurants.

At the other end of the spectrum, burger vans like Meat Wagon (now renamed Meat Liquor) have become big hits in the foodie scene upgrading from the van to a more permanent home (currently just behind Selfridges).

The reason I say all this is because South West London now has its very own burger to be proud of.

Honest Burgers has opened in Brixton Village - itself becoming one of London’s finest foodie destinations - serving great value, great quality food in humble surroundings.

They offer a short, to-the-point menu; a standard burger (£7), cheese burger (£7.50), chicken burger (£8.50), the honest burger with cheese and bacon (£8.50) and changing specials, currently beef, brindisa chorizo, manchego, chimichurri with a chilli butter braise (£10).

Vegetarians aren’t forgotten either with the option of sweetcorn and cauliflower fritters (£6.50).

On my few visits I have tried the honest burger, the standard burger and the cheese burger, which are all divine.

Most recently I fancied the special but alas, they had sold out.

The patties are cooked medium rare so they are juicy and pink and topped with a sweet onion relish. If you opt for a cheese burger (and you should) there is a choice of mature cheddar, red leicester or stilton.

The cheddar is best and strong so you benefit not just from its texture but also good flavour that doesn’t overpower.

All burgers come with triple cooked chips and rosemary salt included in the price.

Quite often a good burger is let down by the chips. Not here. Crispy on the outside, fluffy in the middle and cooked with their skin on, they’re sensational. I could quite happily have that rosemary salt accompanying every meal for the rest of my life.

Burgers are served in a brioche bun – sturdy enough to catch escaping burger juice without going soggy, but light enough to let the burger sing with no bread overload. These burgers are close to perfection.

In my opinion, Honest Burgers are the best in London, beating all competition hands down.

You may have to queue as there are not many tables and they don’t take reservations, but don’t let that put you off, you won’t be disappointed.

Meal for two with drinks (they have recently got a licence) £25.

Honest Burgers | Unit 12, Brixton Village, SW9 8PR | 020 7733 7963

Mark Bixter