Pure and delicious, rich and elegant; chardonnay offers a wealth of flavour, and travels so well that winemakers have made it the international star of the grapevine.

Instantly recognisable, even drinkers who don't know that chardonnay is a grape (Chablis is made with 100% chardonnay and it's one of the classic grape varieties in a champagne blend) are familiar with this dry white wine the colour of straw.

Chardonnay originates from the cool-climate Burgundy region in France, but because it's so easy to grow and neutral enough in flavour to take on many guises and personalities, other regions have succeeded in making it their own - and also making it one of the most widely-planted grapes in the world.

However, initially, along with New World chardonnay came a shift in style to big, buttery, overly-oaked wines high in alcohol. Gradually, we tired of these blockbusters and in the late 90s consumers veered towards more green, tangy styles and joined the ABC bandwagon of Anything But Chardonnay. Winemakers responded to the backlash and today's wines show far less oakiness and far more structure, and the trend has led to a new wave of ABC - Absolutely Brilliant Chardonnay.

Chablis is possibly the most famous (and one of the most expensive) styles of chardonnay and it's here that producers have perfected the art of expressing the chalky terroir with pronounced minerality and lively acidity.

Fresh and breezy, try Simonnet-Febvre Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2011, France (£22.18, www.spiritedwines.co.uk) with characteristic citrus scents, green apple and pear flavours, a hint of oyster shell and a mineral-driven long finish.

Further south, the Languedoc is good hunting ground for fruitier expressions. Tanners Chardonnay, IGP d'Oc 2011, France (£7.40, www.tanners-wines.co.uk) is an easy-drinking style with peach aromas and generous pineapple and pear on the palate with a juicy finish.

Australian chardonnay was at the height of its popularity during the 80s and 90s, and was a major player in the 'over-oaked and over-here' chards when oak was used to mask poor quality grapes and inferior winemaking.

Today, though, Australia's upfront modern style has become a little more restrained and they continue to enjoy tremendous success. For a good week-day wine that's lightly oaked and nicely fruit-driven, try Burra Brook Chardonnay 2012, Australia (£7.99, Marks & Spencer). A drop of sunshine in a glass, it's fragrant and refreshing with touches of ripe apricot and pears, good acidity and a hint of spiced pear on the finish.

Chile likes to turn its hand to most grapes and is a reliable choice for good value chardonnay, especially when it's well crafted and elegant like this little gem from Berry Bros & Rudd.

Try De Martino, Legado Reserve Chardonnay 2011, Limari Valley, Chile (£10.95, www.bbr.com) which is marked by a lively freshness and minerality with vibrant tropical fruit and a delicious long finish that keeps revealing new flavour nuances.

In the right hands, South Africa produces Aussie-inspired chardonnay and Newton Johnson Chardonnay 2011, South Africa (£13.99, www.laithwaites.co.uk) is quite delightful. With a generous expanse of peachy fruit, a fresh, limey nose and ripe citrus and tropical notes, it is clean and refreshing with a subtle hint of oak.

The soil and climate in Southern Italy plays perfectly into the hands of winemakers and along with its indigenous grapes, Sicily enjoys success with international varieties such as chardonnay. Beguiling and concentrated, try Tenuta Rapitala Grand Cru 2011, Sicily (£15.99, www.cellarviewines.com) which has a rich mouthfeel without being over oaky with lush layers of peach, pineapple and pear, a hint of beeswax and vanilla with good acidity keeping it all in place.

A-list producer California is the richest source for full-bodied, opulent wines which can be expansive and creamy without the custard. With great body and texture, try Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay 2007, Napa Valley, USA (£24.99, www.31dover.com) which is beautifully balanced with tiers of hazelnut, honeysuckle and butterscotch. Unfiltered (to help preserve the grapes natural taste and character), this flaxen beauty will remind wine lovers why chardonnay needs a little bit of oak to impart complexity and the desired taste over time.

:: Best buy

Chilled on the inside... Corkcicle have created a real corker with this pre-frozen stick, which looks like a spike of ice with a plastic stopper on the end. To say goodbye to the ice bucket and prevent wine from getting warm, simply pop it into a pre-chilled bottle of white wine to maintain the perfect drinking temperature for an hour. £20, www.sciencemuseumshop.co.uk

:: Liquid news

Green light for winemakers... The 30th International Wine Challenge (IWC) has awarded its 2013 Planet Earth Awards to two wines which also romped home with trophies for Best French White Wine and Best New Zealand White Wine.

Domaine de la Vougeraie picked up the trophy for Best Organic Wine for its Domaine de la Vougeraie Vougeot Premier Cru 2010, Burgundy, France; and the Sustainability Award went to New Zealand vineyard Lawson's Dry Hills for its Sauvignon Blanc 2012 which shows the quality that can be achieved using these eco-friendly methods.

Charles Metcalfe, co-chairman of the IWC says: "It's wonderful to see the commitment of these winemakers to sustaining the environment in which they grow their grapes and protect the people who are involved in the process.

"Advocates of biodynamic and organic winemaking believe these processes create healthier vines, which in turn produce flavoursome wines with complex characters.

"These responsible approaches should ensure that winemaking regions around the world continue to thrive."

For more info visit www.digitalnewsroom.co.uk/iwc/planet-earth-awards/